Bologna Porticoes & Winter Lights 🎄

Morning: Be at the Archiginnasio for 10:00 (booking compulsory; closed Sundays) to see the anatomy theatre. Then walk round the corner to the terracotta mourners at Santa Maria della Vita.

Lunch: Pick up mortadella and Parmigiano at Simoni and carry them to Osteria del Sole, where you buy only the wine. Go before 13:00 to get a table.

Afternoon: Pop into San Petronio for the meridian line. Then book a 16:00 slot up Torre dell'Orologio. Sunset is around 16:40 in midwinter.

Evening: Have aperitivo at Mercato delle Erbe, whose bars stay open late (closed Sundays). From late November to early January, the Nettuno Christmas tree is on the way and the Via Altabella fair is a short detour.

Morning: Start at Porta Saragozza by 09:30 and follow the portico up to San Luca. Allow 60–90 minutes for the 3.8 km climb: flat to the Meloncello arch, then steep and stepped. Walking back down takes about 45 minutes.

Lunch: All'Osteria Bottega is five minutes from the gate (Tue–Sat, book well ahead). Order tagliatelle and the salumi board.

Afternoon: Cross to Santo Stefano after its midday break, then get gelato at Cremeria Santo Stefano (closed Mondays and Tuesdays). Wander up Strada Maggiore under the Servi portico as the lights come on. From November to late December, the Santa Lucia fair lines it.

Evening: Have tortellini in brodo at Trattoria Anna Maria. Book ahead, especially at weekends.